I knew I was going to get to Iraq at some point when staring at the Euphrates during a trip to Syria. When I eventually did get there, I found a land of patience, laissez faire and kindness, but at the very same time a place where contrasts could not have been any stronger, where the grey debris of war met the colourful glazed tiles of past times, as well as the cheers and giggles of the future.

For pictures from my trip to Iraq click here.